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Amazing Products I tried 3D printing gaming mice

Awesome Tips I tried 3D printing gaming mice



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Links for the files:
lil magnum by patshead:
VXE MAD R by jj000000:
NoMouse blade mod by nnv-w:
SUPERLIGHT by This Guy:
Formaquil mouse discord (website in progress):

#mousereview #gamingmice #3dprinting

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Comments

  1. if one more person tells me that the thread inserts are meant to be heated with a soldering iron and pushed in imma kms

  2. Optimum: finally I have a worthy opponent

  3. wtf is this rabbit hole of people using 3dprinted mouse skeleton because they have a 3d printer idling around and weakest wrist ever they need the lightest mouse possible i just ran into? i really dont think skill issue can be fixed with this

  4. Am I watching a horror themed mouse review? ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚

  5. Where did my side button go?

  6. personaly it weighs to mutch

  7. 13:30 THIS LOOKS LIKE A GIRLS DREAM ROOM WTF IS GOING ON

  8. these nuts

  9. deadlock gameplay lets goooo

  10. Great video! Dont you feel like falling into an obsession with these fragile weight reduction trend chase?
    labubu in the world of mices

  11. love the idea

  12. were so close to single-use ultra light mice that crumble after one match

  13. brother just get the fenrrr pro

  14. They are called heat inserts for a reason

  15. By far your best video. I hope you never get better but keep trying.

  16. all i need to say is o7 and you know i watched the whole video so o7

  17. That perfect mouse you made looks gnarly

  18. how about just delete the battery and use wireless power mouse pad.

  19. 1:38 try replacing a โ‚ฌ20 keyboard on an M1 MacBook Pro 13. Once you've removed the battery using a litre of isopropyl alcohol and a spatula, and taken out the trackpad, the logic board, the Wi-Fi antenna, and the glued-in backlight, you then have to shear off the rivets holding the original keyboard in place just to somehow glue and screw the new one in. Every other repair and assembly will feel like a walk in the park after that, trust me.

    Or don't. Don't trust me. Because it's actual torture.

    Thanks for this post. ๐Ÿ™‚
    Now I'm going to need a 3D printer.

  20. we used to have wide short mice with perfect finger support, but no one makes them anymore – that shape (ofc with modern tech and low weight) might be perfect for certain grips

  21. Fck, just learn how to use some tools. Itโ€™s an important life skill. Then invest into good tools. Who knows, maybe you will start liking yourself a little bit.
    P.S. Those round metal thingies, thread inserts, are meant to be installed with a soldering iron into PLA parts.

  22. The heatserts require a soldering iron to push it into the plastic housing. You melt it into place. It's an interference fit.

  23. The last kit looks killer, great video bald man

  24. Idk man even on the 502 my pinkie is rubbing completely on the desk we need bigger not smaller ๐Ÿ˜Š

  25. About halfway through, and I'll just throw in a couple cents if you try this again…

    For fdm prints, while pla is an easy to use filament, I wouldn't recomend it for these mouse kits. It's too brittle and has not great layer adhesion, which is contributing to/causing the breaks you keep having during assembly and use.

    Also, as cool as silk PLA looks… It will not hold up. Some of the worst layer adhesion, causing things to separate.

    PETG is a more forgiving filament with much better layer adhesion, and is almost as easy to use as PLA.

    If you want to go to the extremes, there are other filament recommendations I could give you, but they are not easy at all.

    Pp-cf is super lightweight and low density, with fantastic layer adhesion and density, but boy is it not fun to print.

    Nylon is also pretty light, pretty strong, and with the bambu you have it's a feasible print.

    Polycarbonate just looks cool so… I love it. It also has great stiffness and when printed at good settings, great layer adhesion.

    Basically, when printing such small things, layer adhesion is the weak point in FDM, so switching to resin was a good choice. But FDM can still be great with the right tools and materials.

  26. that nekopara room looks cool

  27. I wish there were some for viper v4 pro

  28. Diamondlobby slowly switching to fingertip mouse gang? ๐Ÿค”

  29. why are we press fitting HEAT set inserts? You need heat and not resin

  30. BRO U NEED TO HEAT THE INSERTS

  31. i did this a couple weeks ago but i designed the print myself ๐Ÿ™‚ love ur vids

  32. 6:52 not for the first, or last time

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